Christine Cooks: corn

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Corn And Crab Chowder

Simple, fresh, satisfying.

There's something about the summers up here: One day a little warm and sunny, another day foggy and cool, yet another warm in the sun, cold in the shade. It's chowder weather.

The last of December's crab catch combined with fresh, local vegetables and this gentle corn stock make a very satisfying meal-in-a-bowl. If you don't happen to have crab on hand, use scallops or a thick white fish such as halibut or cod. I think catfish would work as well.

If you're vegetarian, skip the fish business entirely. Vegans can be assured that this chowder will still be wonderful without the dairy.

The important thing is to use the freshest ingredients you can find. Enjoy!

Christine's Corn and Crab Chowder
Ingredients:
1 quart corn stock
2 yellow summer squash, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 fennel bulb, cut in half again and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
8-10 yellow cherry tomatoes, cut into halves
corn kernels and corn milk cut from 4 ears of corn (save the cobs for your next stock)
1 teaspoon dried thyme, heaping, crushed
1/2 cup half 'n half
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 pound crab meat (fresh is best, freshly frozen is a good substitute)

Preparation:
Bring the stock to a simmer in a large pot.
Add the carrots and fennel and cook for about 7 minutes or until they are just tender.
Add the summer squash, corn and tomatoes and cook for 5-6 minutes more.
Add the crushed thyme and crab and cook until the crab is heated through.
Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
Gently stir in the cream and half 'n half and your chowder is ready to serve.

Cook's Notes:
Use whatever summer vegetables you have available for this chowder but avoid broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and others of that nature as they will overpower the stock.

The addition of a little dry white wine wouldn't be a bad thing at all.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Corn Cob Stock

I know. It's just a corn cob. No kernels. Doesn't look like much. But I promise you if you make this stock your eyebrows will disappear into your hairline and you will be magically transported to a gentle place where soft breezes bring the tantalizing aromas of a corn field on a warm summer's day to your nostrils. Or something very close.

It's for this very reason that I save and freeze corn cobs. As should you. Not for too long though. Do it now while corn is in season and use them for stock by fall.

Delicate and slightly sweet, this stock can be used in so many ways, from chowders to soufflés, from risotto to ice cream. Yes, ice cream. But that will be for another post.

Fresh farmers market ingredients went into the making of this elixir with a Neukom Farms Walla Walla onion adding a sweet top note. Freshly picked thyme sprigs deepened the flavors and of course the corn cobs made it all positively, deliciously corny.

This is it. Like the corn cob above, it doesn't look like much but just wait 'til you taste it. One more thing - freshly picked corn is always best but the reason I have corn cobs in the freezer is because I've already used the kernels in other recipes. But I'm sure you knew that already...

Christine's Corn Cob Stock
Ingredients:
8 corn cobs (sweet white corn, please), kernels removed (see preparation below)
1 large Walla Walla onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 carrots, pared and coarsely chopped
6-8 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
8 whole peppercorns
water to cover cobs, approx. 4 quarts
2 tablespoons (approx) kosher salt, or to taste

Preparation:
If you haven't already, cut the corn kernels from the cob like this: Place a cob upright in a deep bowl, large end resting on the bottom of the bowl. With a sharp knife, gently cut the kernels off by cutting straight down the cob, taking care to not cut too deeply as you will want to use the "milk" that is just beneath the kernels for other corny things in your repertoire.
Rotate the cob and continue to cut the kernels into the bowl. Repeat with the other cobs. The kernels will keep in a zip top bag in the fridge for about a day, so plan to use them, and the corn milk, right away (like in the corn chowder that's coming up.)
Place the cobs in a large stock pot with the chopped onions, carrots, thyme, bay and peppercorns. Cover with water, and bring to a gentle boil.
As soon as the water boils, lower the heat, add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and simmer for about 40 minutes to extract all the flavors. This is a delicate stock and should not be simmered for a long period of time.
Carefully strain the stock into another large pot, add more salt, or not, to your taste and let it cool to room temperature.

Cook's Notes:
This recipe yielded 3 quarts and 2 cups of stock. When the stock had cooled, I poured it, almost to the top, into several large, clean yogurt containers, placed plastic wrap directly onto the liquid, then snapped on lids and put them in the freezer.
This stock will keep in the fridge, tightly covered, for several days. For fresh taste, plan to use the frozen stock within 4 months of making it.

To milk the corn cobs, run the back of a chef's knife up the cob from the large end up, rotating the cob to extract the milk all the way around. Save the milk separately from the corn kernels and use within a day or two.